Walking Club
Adventure on the Matterhorn
The following is an account of a recent successful summit of the iconic Matterhorn by Denis O'Brien. Congratulations to both Denis and Sean from all in the Ballyhoura Bears club. For more details on the Matterhorn (click here)
Adventure on the Matterhorn
By Denis O Brien Freemount Co. Cork Ballyhoura Bears Mountaineering Club.
On Monday August 9th 2010 at 10:10am, two members of Ballyhoura Bears mountaineering club stood on the summit of the Matterhorn. This was the culmination of years of dedicated training, many many 'A' walks with 'The Bears' and lots of starvation for Denis O' Brien and Seán O' Dwyer, both from Freemount. This is our account of it.
We left Dublin airport at twelve noon on Monday August 1st after a good hearty Irish breakfast and arrived at Geneva airport at 3:15pm. It was wet and miserable and to top this our transfer from the airport to our hotel in Les Houches had left. Never to let a bad start put us off we immediately hired another transfer company at €25 per person each way and made or way to Slalom hotel.
The village of Les Houches is just 6 kilometres from Chamonix. Nestling in the foothills of the Alps our bedroom afforded us views of Mont Blanc, Aiguille du Midi and Les Boissons glacier. Needless to say it was one beautiful place to stay. Very soon we were to meet our head guide Francois Peyron, who proved to be a true gentleman and a terrific guide. After dinner at a nearby restaurant we had a couple of beers with a German climber who remained sane only while talking about mountains.
After an early night our guide picked us up at 7am and drove through the tunnel to Italy to the town of Coormayer. From here we took a cable car which was one hot stuffy experience and then continued on foot to Torino hut at 3400m. We had been here before and the prospect of a two foot wide bed with one blanket and a smelly climber at either side of you wasn’t something we looked forward to. Any way you turned somebody was blowing into your face. After a good three course dinner we went to bed at 8:30pm. We shared a room with four others one of whom was our guide Francois.
After a fitful nights sleep we were quite fresh at 5am for our breakfast of cereal, tea and bread. This being day two we knew we would have a long acclimatising climb ahead so we were not surprised when Francois told us we’d be summiting Deant du Geant (4,013m) today. We started our climb at 5:45am and having crossed a glacier we then negotiated a very steep frozen snow section which led us to the foot of a steep rock. We didn’t have a thermometer but it was bitterly cold and despite being laden down with a heavy rucksack, ropes and other equipment, we still hadn’t warmed up when we reached the vertical rock after two and a half hours without a break. This section of rock to the summit of Deant du Geant was the toughest climb we had ever ever done. We had to pull ourselves up vertical bare rock on worn ropes which was not easy considering our hands were frozen and no place to rest for long stretches. Our relief on reaching the summit of Deant du Geant was immense but the panoramic views more than compensated us for the energy expense. We abseiled from this vantage point to the glacier which was one scary experience. When we ran out of rope we had to attach ourselves to the rock-face with pitons and safety sling, then pull down the rope from above and then drop again and repeat this exercise until we reached the safety of a sixty degree snow slope. After this we made our way back to our hut for the night.
We returned to base the next day, Thursday, to a welcome shower and shave and a good square meal. Our next day was a rest day and the weather was poor with heavy thundery showers. We walked to Chamonix, one and a half hours each way, to get food for the remainder of the climb. Views of the Mont Blanc massif and Aguille de Verte were on our left and on the right we could follow the course from the Gouter ridge via Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit, which we took to the summit of Mont Blanc in 2008. On Saturday morning, 5am, Francois picked us up and drove to Tasch. From there we got a train to Zermatt followed by a cable car to 2,000m. Heavily laden with ropes, food and cooking equipment we climbed to the summit of the Breithorn at 4,015m. Again it was bitterly cold and the climb to the summit was very like Mount Elbrus (5,642m) in Russia, a long steep slog on snow but no obstacles.
After taking some photos we dropped down to Rifigio di Grigio hut at 3,450m. This was a fabulous hut with very good food and plenty of it. We went to bed at 8:30pm after a good three course dinner. After breakfast on Sunday morning, we left our comfortable hut to cross a glacier which began our journey to the Carrell hut which is on the Italian side of the Matterhorn. As we crossed the glacier it became obvious why they called the Italian side of the Matterhorn the Lion’s Ridge. Unfortunately for us we had to descend to 2,700m skirting by the new Abruzzi hut and then ascend to a col under the lion’s mane to the spot where the real climbing begins. From here it was close on vertical rock in miserable damp conditions and a strong wind. Some of the pitches we encountered seemed impossible but we knew we couldn’t show weakness here. We literally pulled ourselves upward and onward and after a long hard struggle the strong smell of urine came as a welcome sign that a hut was nearby. Were we glad when we saw a steel ladder which led to our refuge! It was miserably cold and we were fairly wet from perspiration on the inside and the heavy mist on the outside. This hut is unmanned, uncomfortable and rough. Within minutes we both became very very cold and as there is no heating, inside temperatures were well below zero. We sensibly took the only option open to us and went to bed so as to dry our clothes using our body heat. We shook uncontrollably in bed for a couple of hours. A climber in his mid twenties with a full down suit like a Michelin man lay in the bunk beside me, and he shook and trembled reminding me of a machine used for crushing grapes in a wine making factory. We melted some snow and cooked up a bit of dinner which was also rough,but it warmed us and fortunately the sun came out for some time before nightfall.
After a bad nights sleep we got up at 5am and after a miserable breakfast of weak tea and stale salami sandwich, we started the final leg of our journey. Only two metres from the hut our climbing began. Again it was bitterly cold with a very strong wind. From here there were sections of fixed rope and many steep pitches. The ropes seemed a better quality than before and we were feeling confident until we came to a rope ladder. It was here our resolve was tested as half way up the rope ladder it became evident the rock-face was concave and there was no support for our feet, the rope ladder just buckled in and away from us, so we literally had to drag ourselves hand over hand to the top. This was the most difficult section we encountered. From here it was one steep pitch after another but the rock condition was very good with plenty of hand and foot holds. At 10:10am the surroundings seemed to brighten and then we could see rising before us a steel cross. We knew right away that this was the Italian summit, Cervino. Just beyond this on a narrow ridge, was the Swiss summit, the Matterhorn. We were so thrilled and relieved to stand on this spot but the guide was calling us to descend quickly.
We took some photographs and began our descent down a very steep ice slope. This was treacherously steep with no room for error. We were relieved to get onto solid rock. From here we abseiled to the Solvay hut where we had some food and drink. We continued to abseil where possible and descended fixed ropes where available. Concentration was vital for every last step as one slip would prove to be disastrous. We had to be on the alert for rock-fall/icefall and we gingerly dropped altitude until we eventually reached the base of the mountain at 3:15pm. From here we followed a path and we ran all the way over rough ground to the nearest cable car, due to leave at 4:30pm. We arrived at 4:15pm and needless to say the other occupants of the cable car gave us a wide berthing as we hadn’t washed for some time.
On arrival in Zermatt in 30 degrees Celsius we quickly dried off but boy did we need to shower! First things first however, we made our way to a lovely pub/restaurant and carefully choosing a table taking wind direction into consideration, we enjoyed some refreshing Swiss beer and local cuisine in beautiful evening sunshine. The Matterhorn mountain stood majestically nearby as we gazed in awe. We wondered would anybody present believe that just a few hours previously, we were standing on that lofty summit looking down on the world below. Around the corner from where we enjoyed our refreshments was a cemetery filled with the remains of unfortunate climbers who lost their lives in their pursuit of adventure on the Matterhorn. Next day we visited the little church in les Houches and gave thanks for our safe return. On the ceiling is a picture of a saint in green garments who looks like our very own St. Patrick to whom we prayed for a safe climb. Our prayers were heard and we thanked him. After a days rest we returned home to the safety of our homes in anticipation of our next adventure.
Adventure on the Matterhorn
By Denis O Brien Freemount Co. Cork Ballyhoura Bears Mountaineering Club.
On Monday August 9th 2010 at 10:10am, two members of Ballyhoura Bears mountaineering club stood on the summit of the Matterhorn. This was the culmination of years of dedicated training, many many 'A' walks with 'The Bears' and lots of starvation for Denis O' Brien and Seán O' Dwyer, both from Freemount. This is our account of it.
We left Dublin airport at twelve noon on Monday August 1st after a good hearty Irish breakfast and arrived at Geneva airport at 3:15pm. It was wet and miserable and to top this our transfer from the airport to our hotel in Les Houches had left. Never to let a bad start put us off we immediately hired another transfer company at €25 per person each way and made or way to Slalom hotel.
The village of Les Houches is just 6 kilometres from Chamonix. Nestling in the foothills of the Alps our bedroom afforded us views of Mont Blanc, Aiguille du Midi and Les Boissons glacier. Needless to say it was one beautiful place to stay. Very soon we were to meet our head guide Francois Peyron, who proved to be a true gentleman and a terrific guide. After dinner at a nearby restaurant we had a couple of beers with a German climber who remained sane only while talking about mountains.
After an early night our guide picked us up at 7am and drove through the tunnel to Italy to the town of Coormayer. From here we took a cable car which was one hot stuffy experience and then continued on foot to Torino hut at 3400m. We had been here before and the prospect of a two foot wide bed with one blanket and a smelly climber at either side of you wasn’t something we looked forward to. Any way you turned somebody was blowing into your face. After a good three course dinner we went to bed at 8:30pm. We shared a room with four others one of whom was our guide Francois.
After a fitful nights sleep we were quite fresh at 5am for our breakfast of cereal, tea and bread. This being day two we knew we would have a long acclimatising climb ahead so we were not surprised when Francois told us we’d be summiting Deant du Geant (4,013m) today. We started our climb at 5:45am and having crossed a glacier we then negotiated a very steep frozen snow section which led us to the foot of a steep rock. We didn’t have a thermometer but it was bitterly cold and despite being laden down with a heavy rucksack, ropes and other equipment, we still hadn’t warmed up when we reached the vertical rock after two and a half hours without a break. This section of rock to the summit of Deant du Geant was the toughest climb we had ever ever done. We had to pull ourselves up vertical bare rock on worn ropes which was not easy considering our hands were frozen and no place to rest for long stretches. Our relief on reaching the summit of Deant du Geant was immense but the panoramic views more than compensated us for the energy expense. We abseiled from this vantage point to the glacier which was one scary experience. When we ran out of rope we had to attach ourselves to the rock-face with pitons and safety sling, then pull down the rope from above and then drop again and repeat this exercise until we reached the safety of a sixty degree snow slope. After this we made our way back to our hut for the night.
We returned to base the next day, Thursday, to a welcome shower and shave and a good square meal. Our next day was a rest day and the weather was poor with heavy thundery showers. We walked to Chamonix, one and a half hours each way, to get food for the remainder of the climb. Views of the Mont Blanc massif and Aguille de Verte were on our left and on the right we could follow the course from the Gouter ridge via Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit, which we took to the summit of Mont Blanc in 2008. On Saturday morning, 5am, Francois picked us up and drove to Tasch. From there we got a train to Zermatt followed by a cable car to 2,000m. Heavily laden with ropes, food and cooking equipment we climbed to the summit of the Breithorn at 4,015m. Again it was bitterly cold and the climb to the summit was very like Mount Elbrus (5,642m) in Russia, a long steep slog on snow but no obstacles.
After taking some photos we dropped down to Rifigio di Grigio hut at 3,450m. This was a fabulous hut with very good food and plenty of it. We went to bed at 8:30pm after a good three course dinner. After breakfast on Sunday morning, we left our comfortable hut to cross a glacier which began our journey to the Carrell hut which is on the Italian side of the Matterhorn. As we crossed the glacier it became obvious why they called the Italian side of the Matterhorn the Lion’s Ridge. Unfortunately for us we had to descend to 2,700m skirting by the new Abruzzi hut and then ascend to a col under the lion’s mane to the spot where the real climbing begins. From here it was close on vertical rock in miserable damp conditions and a strong wind. Some of the pitches we encountered seemed impossible but we knew we couldn’t show weakness here. We literally pulled ourselves upward and onward and after a long hard struggle the strong smell of urine came as a welcome sign that a hut was nearby. Were we glad when we saw a steel ladder which led to our refuge! It was miserably cold and we were fairly wet from perspiration on the inside and the heavy mist on the outside. This hut is unmanned, uncomfortable and rough. Within minutes we both became very very cold and as there is no heating, inside temperatures were well below zero. We sensibly took the only option open to us and went to bed so as to dry our clothes using our body heat. We shook uncontrollably in bed for a couple of hours. A climber in his mid twenties with a full down suit like a Michelin man lay in the bunk beside me, and he shook and trembled reminding me of a machine used for crushing grapes in a wine making factory. We melted some snow and cooked up a bit of dinner which was also rough,but it warmed us and fortunately the sun came out for some time before nightfall.
After a bad nights sleep we got up at 5am and after a miserable breakfast of weak tea and stale salami sandwich, we started the final leg of our journey. Only two metres from the hut our climbing began. Again it was bitterly cold with a very strong wind. From here there were sections of fixed rope and many steep pitches. The ropes seemed a better quality than before and we were feeling confident until we came to a rope ladder. It was here our resolve was tested as half way up the rope ladder it became evident the rock-face was concave and there was no support for our feet, the rope ladder just buckled in and away from us, so we literally had to drag ourselves hand over hand to the top. This was the most difficult section we encountered. From here it was one steep pitch after another but the rock condition was very good with plenty of hand and foot holds. At 10:10am the surroundings seemed to brighten and then we could see rising before us a steel cross. We knew right away that this was the Italian summit, Cervino. Just beyond this on a narrow ridge, was the Swiss summit, the Matterhorn. We were so thrilled and relieved to stand on this spot but the guide was calling us to descend quickly.
We took some photographs and began our descent down a very steep ice slope. This was treacherously steep with no room for error. We were relieved to get onto solid rock. From here we abseiled to the Solvay hut where we had some food and drink. We continued to abseil where possible and descended fixed ropes where available. Concentration was vital for every last step as one slip would prove to be disastrous. We had to be on the alert for rock-fall/icefall and we gingerly dropped altitude until we eventually reached the base of the mountain at 3:15pm. From here we followed a path and we ran all the way over rough ground to the nearest cable car, due to leave at 4:30pm. We arrived at 4:15pm and needless to say the other occupants of the cable car gave us a wide berthing as we hadn’t washed for some time.
On arrival in Zermatt in 30 degrees Celsius we quickly dried off but boy did we need to shower! First things first however, we made our way to a lovely pub/restaurant and carefully choosing a table taking wind direction into consideration, we enjoyed some refreshing Swiss beer and local cuisine in beautiful evening sunshine. The Matterhorn mountain stood majestically nearby as we gazed in awe. We wondered would anybody present believe that just a few hours previously, we were standing on that lofty summit looking down on the world below. Around the corner from where we enjoyed our refreshments was a cemetery filled with the remains of unfortunate climbers who lost their lives in their pursuit of adventure on the Matterhorn. Next day we visited the little church in les Houches and gave thanks for our safe return. On the ceiling is a picture of a saint in green garments who looks like our very own St. Patrick to whom we prayed for a safe climb. Our prayers were heard and we thanked him. After a days rest we returned home to the safety of our homes in anticipation of our next adventure.
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